Jonas Mäki Returns to Japan After 20 Years: Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto Tips
After a long gap of nearly two decades, editor Jonas Mäki finally returned to Japan this summer and used a two-week trip in late June to explore Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto beyond the headline attractions. In a candid, player-friendly reflection, he shares what still feels unmistakably “Japanese,” what has changed since his last visit in 2008, and the practical tips—plus a few strong warnings—that could shape how your own trip goes.
A return trip after 18 years
Mäki said this was not his first time in Japan, but it was his first visit in 18 years and the only one where he had real time to roam. He also framed the experience as strangely surreal: you think you know a country, but once you’re there, you’re confronted with the reality behind the impressions you’ve carried for years.
He notes he previously covered two major gaming stops—his visit to a Nintendo museum and a Super Nintendo World attraction—in separate pieces. This article, he adds, is not meant to be a comprehensive travel review; it’s a “mixed-up” set of observations focused on what he found fun.
Akihabara and Osaka’s game-shopping heartbeat
Returning to Akihabara was a personal priority. He visited the district in 2008 and long wanted to see it again. While he acknowledges online complaints that “Akiba” has shifted away from its older underground character—mentioning that once-iconic spots like a Sega arcade space and the Super Potato store have changed in both feel and pricing—he still calls it a great hub for otaku culture. For him, the appeal remains in the variety: collectible shops, impressive game retail, arcades, and cosplayers moving through the streets.
In Osaka, he highlights Nipponbashi Denden Town as the local equivalent to Akihabara. He hadn’t been there before, but expects it may even top Tokyo’s version in some ways: better prices, easier access to second-hand goods, and less crowding—making it a must for gamers.
Arcades, gacha, and claw machines—still built for play
Mäki remembers Sega arcades being present in 2008, but says that many have since closed after Sega sold the arcades to Gigo. Even so, he reports that arcades still exist and are more common in Japan than in the West, though he also points to lots of smaller venues and some that don’t quite meet expectations.
His arcade nostalgia shows up in the practical details: he describes how it’s easy to drop a 100-yen coin and play for real, with some locations also selling instant noodles and other quick food. He frames it as a way to “pretend we’re back in the ’90s,” even if the overall scene is different now.
He also makes room for Japan’s broader prize culture. Gacha machines are everywhere, and he lists the range of what they can dispense—from miniature food replicas and manga figures to Nintendo keychains, clothing, and even adult-themed items. The point, he says, isn’t utility—it’s the compulsion to try to win something you didn’t plan to want.
For claw machines and similar dexterity games, he describes the typical pattern: weak claws make victory feel close, until it isn’t. He says he got hooked on ring-toss games where you try to land a ring on a hook, earning him prizes along the way. He stresses the same “too-fun-to-resist” appeal as gachas, adding that prizes can range from sumo-themed items and toilet paper to Sonic plushes, potato-shaped keychains, and hentai-style figures.
Getting around: Suica and Icoca ease the whole trip
On logistics, he says moving through Tokyo and Osaka is straightforward. He recommends getting a Suica card for Tokyo or an Icoca card for Osaka, either digital or physical. These work across buses, trains, vending machines, and many shops. You tap the card to enter and exit, and pricing is automatically adjusted. He also notes that signage is clear and that AI or maps apps can guide you to the right station and line.
Food, shopping, and “don’t trust the hype”
When it comes to food, Mäki’s message is simple: try as much variety as possible—he specifically calls out yakiniku, shabu shabu, and tonkatsu. At the same time, he advises travelers not to follow viral “food influencer” recommendations. He claims some popular spots end up with long queues, but the food isn’t better—and may even be worse—than what you can find at random places nearby. He adds a personal benchmark: the worst ramen he ate in Japan was still at least as good as the best ramen he’s had back in Sweden.
Shopping value is a major recurring theme. He says the yen felt “ridiculously cheap” and that prices across the board were so low that it surprised him. As a general estimate, he claims restaurant meals often cost about half what they would at home, and sometimes even less. He also says the overall trip cost doesn’t end up dramatically higher than other popular destinations, despite travel expenses, because the in-country cost of living is so low.
He praises Don Quijote (“Donki”) as enjoyable but claims it’s also overrated. His comparison is that it feels like a steroid-boosted version of a Swedish store concept, while still delivering typical Japanese strengths: high quality products at unusually low prices, and some items you often can’t find elsewhere. One caveat: he warns the Shibuya location is extremely tourist-heavy, crowded, and sweaty.
For convenience culture, he explains that konbini are like mini supermarkets without the car-related extras. He says the food quality is consistently high and prices are low. His personal favorite is a Family Mart item called Fami-Chiki, sold in the checkout area as an easy snack after long walks. He also points to frozen drinks prepared via vending machines and to onigiri and other grab-and-go options.
Konbini to Gundam: specific stops that made the trip
In Tokyo, he calls Parco a shopping landmark in Shibuya, with a particular focus on its sixth floor. He says it’s packed with stores for major brands and franchises, including Capcom, Godzilla, JoJo’s Bizarre Adventure, Nintendo, Pokémon, Sega, and more.
He also discusses the Sanrio Café in Harajuku. Even if he’s not the target age group, he booked a themed tea ceremony there after being with an 11-year-old. He reports the Hello Kitty-themed meal was surprisingly good, with tasty non-alcoholic drinks and time for themed shopping.
For Sega fans in Tokyo, he highlights the Sega Store inside Parco. He calls it smaller than the Nintendo store, and says it leans too heavily on current Sega rather than older eras like Master System through Dreamcast (though he says some older items are present). Still, he recommends it for fans of Atlus role-playing games, Yakuza/Like a Dragon, and Sonic, and he mentions buying Sega merchandise including a pouch, a t-shirt, and a mug.
He recommends Odaiba for urban-futurist shopping and entertainment, noting it has two shopping centers and “futuristic” architecture. He also says there are large arcade halls and good food. However, he warns that a 20-meter Gundam statue—while currently a draw—will be removed in August, and he hopes it will be replaced.
Public behavior and “tourist rules” you should actually follow
One of the more cautionary parts of the reflection is about visitors. Mäki says it’s hypocritical to complain about tourists while being one, but he still prefers a Japan that feels at least somewhat “more Japanese.” In Tokyo, he points to Harajuku and Shibuya as places where he believes crowds include more tourists than locals, and he claims some visitors don’t even follow basic local rules. He describes issues like blocking elevators, littering, causing noise on public transport, and behaving inappropriately at sacred sites.
He warns that Japanese residents are becoming increasingly stricter with tourists. He frames it as a mutual respect issue: people don’t like outsiders acting badly in their country, and Japan is no different.
He also finds something fascinating: in metro cars and especially in elevators, people can be unusually quiet. He says it’s common to hear minimal conversation in train cars due to extremely low volume, and that elevators are often completely silent.
Animal cafés: a clear “avoid” recommendation
On animal cafés, he offers one of his strongest warnings. He says if you like animals, you should avoid these places. He acknowledges there are isolated establishments that focus on rehoming, but he points to repeated reporting from organizations including WWF Japan and Wild Welfare about animal mistreatment. He specifically mentions that nocturnal animals like owls can be forced to stay awake during daytime for tourists, while living in tiny enclosures and suffering stress and anxiety. His advice is blunt: stay away even if capybaras look cute.
Temples, rebuilds, and when to go
He did manage to see major temples in Tokyo, naming Senso-ji and Zōjō-ji, with the latter including six shogun tombs. He says temples are worth visiting for their beauty and history, but warns that many are reconstructions. He compares the situation to Tokyo being largely destroyed during World War II, similar to Berlin, and urges visitors to keep that in mind.
He also recommends going early or late in the day due to the “absurd” number of tourists.
Parco, Harajuku, and Shibuya: fashion vs stress
Harajuku is described as a fashionable Tokyo neighborhood, but he believes it’s enough for most travelers to visit once. He suggests it’s best for younger audiences interested in youth fashion and cosplay, and he notes that the area can be very crowded.
Shibuya is positioned as a “must-see,” especially for the famous scramble crossing, but he says he doesn’t personally like the district much. He describes it as smelly, packed with tourists, and offering more expensive food that he feels is lower quality. The combination makes it stressful for him compared with other Tokyo neighborhoods he visited.
Money-saving policies and a change coming in November
He advises shoppers to bring a passport because Japan often offers tax-free purchases. He says this can reduce prices further and describes multiple refund methods: some places hand back cash on the spot, others use apps, some use email, and others process refunds at dedicated counters.
The key rule, he stresses, is that you must not consume or use tax-free products while still in Japan. If you do, you won’t qualify for the refund. He says the system will change on November 1: from then on, refunds will be processed at the airport in a single transaction, and travelers may have to show products to confirm they weren’t used.
Japan’s trains, vending culture, and even umbrellas
Mäki also points out a small but memorable Japan detail: transparent umbrellas. He says if you’ve watched anime, you’ll recognize the phenomenon. He describes buying one at a nearby konbini for almost nothing the first time it rained and carrying it home as a souvenir.
He’s similarly impressed by the sheer density and quality of vending machines. He says it’s near impossible not to see multiple machines in major cities like Osaka, including in places where they stand alone without vandalism—something he says would be unlikely in Europe.
Cars, costs, and “small moments” that stuck
While he didn’t rent a car, he still discusses driving culture: Japan drives on the left, but he focuses on the environmental feel. He says Japan’s vehicle fleet relies entirely on fossil fuels and that he can smell exhaust in a way cities in Sweden haven’t for about 10 to 15 years. He also notes that traffic sound from fossil-fuel engines feels louder, and he concludes that cars on Japanese roads can seem old in a country that’s otherwise technologically advanced.
For him, the best memories weren’t only the famous landmarks. He highlights the value of small surprises: bamboo groves in residential areas, temples spotted near game arcades, and the sudden appearance of Shinto shrines while searching for ramen.
Samurai and ninja museums, plus Nintendo megastores
He recommends a stop in Asakusa: a museum centered on samurai and ninja history. He says it provides historical context and includes training with shuriken throwing stars. He hints he bought one to take home.
On Nintendo retail, he says Osaka has a much bigger store than the ones he’s visited in New York and Tokyo. If you want to browse Nintendo merchandise across a wide range—from kitchen items like kettles to clothing, cookies, aprons, shirts, and Animal Crossing towels—he says Osaka is the place to go.
Ongoing impressions: honesty, even when it feels risky
He closes with observations about honesty. He says he saw people leave wallets, phones, and bags on tables while they went to order food or buy drinks. In one hotel, he asked about luggage storage because check-in wasn’t until 15:00, and he says they had a luggage setup. But he describes a surprising detail: they didn’t lock bags in a secured area—instead they left suitcases visible in a corner at reception where staff couldn’t even easily see them, with multiple other bags already there.
He also recounts an incident involving security at the Tokyo Imperial Palace plan. He says that about an hour before visiting, he bought a real kitchen knife, and when they went through entry checks, guards inspected their belongings, flagged the knife as dangerous, but allowed them in with a warning that they couldn’t use it within the grounds.
Between the quiet transit behavior, the rules around tourists, the strict tax-free refund conditions, and the vivid examples of daily life, Mäki’s overall takeaway is that Japan can feel exceptionally orderly—and that understanding the local expectations makes the trip smoother for everyone.
